Lunch Under $5

Opinions are divided on when the recession will end. So, until it does, I've decided to initiate a new post category: "Lunch Under $5." Here are my latest finds. (Note: some of these restaurants have more than one location, but I've only included the location I visited.)

• Fried Whitefish Sandwich: This hefty filet, topped with cheese and lettuce and served on a soft mayo-spread bun, will set you back $3.75. (Cafe Zaiya: 18 East 41st St., 212-779-0600.)
  

• 1/2 Lb. Cornmeal Crostata: A big wedge of this savory crostata comes in two flavors - ham, cheddar and Parmesan or zucchini and feta - and costs only $4.75 (Dishes At Home: Grand Central Market, 212-370-5511.)

• Rice Plate: Of the 30 rice plates at Great N.Y. Noodletown, only nine are over $5. My friend proclaimed the $4 soy-poached chicken "the best he's ever had." Also available are roast duck (How much is that ducky in the window? $4) and curry beef stew ($4.25). (Great N.Y. Noodletown: 28 1/2 Bowery, 212-349-0923.)
  

Melt Gelato & Crepe Cafe

Just in time for this summery weather, there's a new gelato shop. Melt's official opening is tomorrow, but tonight they are giving out free crepes and gelato (that's why there is such a crowd on 2nd Avenue between 55th and 56th, in case you were wondering). The coconut gelato is much too sweet for my taste, but the chocolate is good, if more on the milk chocolate end of the spectrum than the dark. There's also a fat-free mango flavor as well as raspberry and hazelnut.

Melt: 1053 2nd Ave., (646) 329-6445,

Sweets News

• Although we must say a sad goodbye to the Amai Tea & Bake House, we can say hello again to the Chocolate Bar (19 8th Ave., 212-367-7181) which is reopening on April 28 after relocating from the East Village. Executive Chef Gustaf Mabrouk will create new chocolate confections, including plain, raspberry and espresso Mallomars. (Now, if only someone could convince Chocolat Michel Cluizel to reopen...)

• Free brownie sundaes will be given out on Wednesday, April 22, and Thursday, April 24! The ice cream is from Ben & Jerry's, and the brownies are from Greyston Bakery. On Wednesday, be at Whole Foods Tribeca (270 Greenwich St.) between 12:30-2 pm, or Whole Foods Bowery (95 East Houston St between 4:30-5:30 pm. On Thursday, April 23, go to Whole Foods Union Square (4 Union Square South) between 12:30-2:00 pm.
  
  
  
  

Luxee Dessert Cafe (CLOSED)

Lately, it seems like I'm on Clinton Street all the time. The tapas at 1492 Food, four-cheese pizza at San Marzano, and tomato-mozzarella tarts at Falai Panetteria keep me coming back for more. And now I have yet another scrumptious reason to visit Clinton Street: the sweet-savory Parmesan souffle at Luxee. This towering, sugar-dusted, eggy dessert is already impressive; a tableside grating of cheese over the top renders it irresistible. The souffle is served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a little bowl of hazelnut brickle.

There are many other treats for the adventurous sweets lover: green forest parfait of avocado and chocolate; a Mont Blanc with the surprising addition of tomato-rose jam; chocolate and star anise cake; and rose macarons. Different teas are recommended for each dessert - my souffle was paired with chamomile.

Luxee Dessert Cafe: 6 Clinton St., (212) 375-1796.

Lunch at Atria (CLOSED as of 5/09)

Restaurant Week may be over, but there are still some great deals to be had - especially for lunch. A friend and I are new fans of Atria's $27 three-course prix fixe.

Atria was partially fashioned from a landmarked Rockefeller townhouse, which was built in the early 1900's. After we waited in the sedate, low-ceilinged bar, we were surprised by the restaurant's breathtakingly modern dining room. A dramatic eight-story glass wall led up to a skylight. Rotating hanging sculptures, created from "found objects" in Brooklyn, evoked a sort of abstract planetarium. (According to our host, Paul, the view is even more impressive at night.) Apparently, the dining room was once a courtyard.

The stylishly plated French cuisine transfixed us as much as the decor. I was reminded of that much-missed favorite, Fleur De Sel. For an appetizer, I ordered a pale yellow fantasy of gnocchi with a delicate quail egg, Parmesan foam and a Parmesan tuile. My friend's matboucha, a traditional Moroccan dish, was a napoleon of tangy tomato, peppered ricotta and eggplant.

Feeling festive, I drained my glass of 100% Verdejo wine and then dug into my main course. The meaty fillet of lightly-browned hake benefited from a creamy cauliflower puree and tender heirloom vegetables. Frizzled chervil and leeks provided a tasty crunch. My friend's dish was more assertive but equally delicious. Crunchy-skinned roasted chicken with Brussels sprouts was served in a rich brown peppery jus over a bed of riebele, or grated German pasta. (Paul said that a fresh batch of this pasta is made every day.)

I was almost disappointed when dessert arrived, because our afternoon would soon be over. Chocolate mousse was a good choice for savoring slowly. It arrived with pink peppercorn whipped cream and strip of grapefruit gelee. The dessert summed up the whole delightful experience of Atria - tradition with a modern spark.

Atria: 13-15 West 54th St., (212) 315-9516.

Sweets News

To preface this edition of Sweets News, I must say how much I regret the closing of P*ong.

• April showers bring... macarons. To celebrate Spring, Tafu NYC (CLOSED 2009) as created a line of macarons in Japanese flavors like black sesame and matcha. They are $2.50 each.

• Are you feeling creative? Try to brainstorm Dunkin Donuts' newest flavor, and if your suggestion is chosen, you'll win a $12,000 prize! The deadline is April 7.

• Alexandra Leaf of Chocolate Tours NYC (isn't this wonderful?) will lead a chocolate factory tour on April 25 at 12:30 pm. To register, visit the ICE Website. (Apparently, it is recommended that you eat lunch beforehand, so as not to experience an insane sugar spike.)
  

Andy's Seafood & Grill

Forest Hillsers know how hard it is to score a table at East Ocean Palace, a popular Chinese restaurant with large fish tanks. As of this week, there's an alternative in nearby Rego Park, and what an alternative it is! Andy's Seafood Kitchen is a new Taiwanese/Szechuanese place on Queens Boulevard, and its menu boasts every imaginable treat from the sea. Are you craving sea cucumber? Have some in brown sauce, or with abalone. What about conch? It's served with chives, or with fried bean curd. Snails in black bean sauce, Taiwanese cuttlefish soup, fried baby oysters, squid with scallion and ginger, sauteed crab with vermicelli or black bean sauce... the list goes on and on. I stopped in today for the delectable sliced flounder in hot chili sauce - it was served in a bubbling broth, which was fragrant with cilantro, scallions, sesame oil and ginger.

Andy's has something for everyone. For the fan of Chinese-American food, there are scallion pancakes and sweet-and-sour pork. For the more adventurous, there are salt and pepper frogs' legs. And for those of us who are trying to conserve cash (and that's a lot of us these days) there is the already-legendary "Dollar Menu" (Monday-Friday, 11 am-4 pm). Served from a steam table, this menu includes Peking duck, crispy whole shrimps, pepper steak, and much more. Andy (yes, there really is an Andy), rounds up the items of your choice, and gracefully places them upon your plate - no messy communal buffet here!

Please visit Andy's, but leave me a table. I have a lot more eating to do here.

Andy's Seafood Kitchen: 95-26 Queens Blvd., Rego Park, (718) 275-2388.

A Eulogy, in Restaurants

Next week, I'll back to my regularly scheduled restaurant review, but in this post I wanted to pay homage to one of my favorite dining partners: my vivacious grandmother, who just passed away on Thursday at 91 (1917-2009). She is referenced in various posts on this blog.
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Grandma was always happiest when everyone was eating, although she would tell you that she herself ate like a bird. We painted the town red, going to Payard for tea, Sant Ambroeus for lunch, and Teodora for dinner. We hit all the hot spots; last year, my companion and I took her to Quality Meats. We were regulars at Elio’s; this was one of Grandma’s favorite restaurants, because she used to go there with my late grandfather. But no matter where we went, she would always ask, “What are you having? That's all? No appetizer, no salad? Are you enjoying your food?” (She would also mention that Grandpa would have liked what I was eating. He liked to read menus and eat exotic foods just like me.)

I discovered a lot of new foods in Grandma’s kitchen. She introduced me to egg barley, and she made all the Hungarian specialties like nockerl and kaposzta teszta. Grandpa would have all the ingredients for homemade fountain sodas in the fridge, and there was always lots of candy on the coffee table, so their apartment was really a great place for a kid.

As Grandma grew older, she wasn’t as able to cook, so we’d go out to Our Place on 3rd Avenue. One memorable night, we went there with my aunt, my father, and my brother. It was a rather challenging evening; we were all arguing with each other. My aunt had sent her food back twice, and the cook had put peppers in Grandma’s main dish (my aunt wanted to try it but had an allergy to peppers). I had to leave the table and take a deep breath. When I returned, it was time to open the fortune cookies, and Grandma’s said: “Your family is one of nature’s masterpieces.” We all burst out laughing.

Grandma lived through many ups and downs, surgeries, and the passing of my grandfather, whom she was always thinking about. But through it all, she maintained the most positive attitude - even after falling and breaking her arm in three places while in her mid-80's. It really didn’t take her long to recover; soon we were going out to the movies and Etats-Unis.

She appreciated every little thing, an iced coffee, a birthday card, her egg poacher, the smoked fish from Sable's, a short phone call, and the apricot cake from Andre’s Hungarian that I brought her this past Sunday - the last day I saw her.

Rest in peace, Grandma, and I hope there are some good restaurants in heaven.

Inakaya

Having not read much about Inakaya other than that it was a Japanese grill, I was utterly unprepared for the synchronized shouting and dancing of its cooks and servers. "Did we just walk into Cold Stone Creamery?" I asked my companion. Uniformed men cried out as they pounded mochi into submission, waiters loudly chanted orders, and there was an eruption of "Irrashaimase!" whenever a customer entered the restaurant.

The experience was rather jarring, which was a shame, because many of the grilled items were quite good. We sat at the counter, where baskets of fresh vegetables, meats and fish were laid out in a row. The cooks would pluck out our choice, cook it and deliver it on a long wooden plank. When the gummy taro potatoes ran out, they were replaced by golden-fleshed Japanese sweet potatoes served with a smear of sweet butter. We also enjoyed meaty grilled yellowtail filets in both teriyaki and sea salt preparations, and tsukune (chicken meatball skewers) in tare sauce. The grilled scallop was disappointingly bland, although attractively presented in a shell. (Our budgets did not allow for the $67 deep sea snapper.)

The cold dish menu included maguro natto (one of my favorite dishes); the raw tuna was sliced instead of cubed. (There was no maguro yamakake on the menu, although plain grated yam cake could be ordered.) There was also a sizeable sushi menu, which we didn't take advantage of.

It is this humble blogger's opinion that Inakaya might benefit from a menu apart from the a la carte, especially in this economic climate. Soup, rice, or salad could be included with a main course- it gets expensive when you are ordering four chunks of potato for $7, or a $9 skewer of mushrooms. And perhaps the theatrics could be toned down a bit.

Inakaya: 231 West 40th St., (212) 354-2195.

1492 Food

Do you ever walk by a restaurant, make a mental note to dine there someday, and then promptly forget the name? That's what I did, and after a Google search for "that tapas place on Clinton," I met a friend at Tapeo 29.

But I'd meant to go to 1492 Food. (Nothing against Tapeo 29, although it was rather noisy.) So, after a slightly uncomfortable exchange with the host, we exited, and walked down the block towards the restaurant that existed in both my memory and, fortunately, reality.

We loved the place from the first sip of sangria (red for us, but the restaurant also serves white). The waiter brought us a basket of fresh-baked Spanish bread. We were surprised to find that the accompanying condiment was not butter, but garlicky aioli. It was gone in about two seconds.

Although the chorizo lollipops and bacon-wrapped dates called to us, we were trying to eat light, as it was rather late. We began with soup. The special was a sort of zarzuela; it was packed with tender calamari, mussels and shrimp. The other soup was lentil, a nourishing rendition made with diced carrots. "The lentils are perfect; when they're overcooked, they get starchy," remarked my friend.

After the soup, we polished off the escalivada, a plate of dainty grilled veggies (artichokes, red peppers, tomatoes, eggplant) finished off with truffle oil. (Healthy, yes, but delicious!) Our last course was a plate of hearty porcini croquettes. Crunchy on the outside and creamy within, they were served with small dollops of mushroom mayonnaise. The bread came in very handy here.

Once the dessert menu arrived, I realized that our attempt at light eating was about to fall by the wayside. After being tempted by the chocolate molten lava cake, we ended up with the rich, dense chestnut cake (tarta de marrones). It was totally irresistible with its caramel topping and a side of fresh whipped cream.

After a couple of excellent cortados, we agreed to return for the 2-for-1 drink special, which is offered every Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. (Now that the name of the restaurant is established firmly in my memory, it should be easier to come back!)

1492 Food: 60 Clinton St., (646) 654-1114.

Taro Sushi

I haven't yet made it to Brooklyn's new Kappa Sake House or Zuzu Ramen (well, the latter isn't open until Tuesday, March 10 - it will offer novelties like green curry ramen as well as sake and beer). But I always enjoy the sake and sushi at Taro Sushi. I was first introduced to this Japanese gem by a Park Slope family whom I'll call The Olives. The Olives have two little girls who are rapidly broadening their palates at Taro. Tonight, they feasted on inside-out California rolls and shrimp tempura maki topped with rainbows of avocado and smoked salmon. But when one of the girls clamored for an item not on the menu (a bowl of plain tofu cubes), the waiter happily obliged.

I started my meal with a dish of chopped toro tartare, raw quail egg and lots of wasabi, and continued with two preparations of freshwater eel: plain with sea salt, and lightly sauced. Then I savored some yellowtail belly topped a white onion sauce, and an assertive mackerel slice. All of the fish was outstandingly fresh and presented with care.

But there was more than just sushi on the menu. The hot appetizer selection included such delicacies as simmered pork ribs and miso-cooked pork stomach. Mama Olive craved noodles, so she devoured a bowl of hot soba with spinach, seaweed and scallions. (I think she'll probably bring the Olive girls to Zuzu when it opens.)

Diners of all ages will enjoy Taro Sushi.

Taro Sushi: 446 Dean St., Brooklyn, (718) 398-0872.

Barnyard Cheese, Meats & Fine Foods

Gougeres are like potato chips; I can never eat just one. The addictive cheese puffs have stopped me from finishing many a meal at Benoit or Artisanal. But now I can stock up on these savory treats without making a dinner reservation; they're available by the bagful at Barnyard. This gourmet market sells all of my favorite things. Cheeses include Pleasant Ridge, Pecorino Toscano, Garrotxa, and chevre noir; co-owner Darren is generous with the samples. For charcuterie, there's Serrano ham and pancetta. The refrigerator is full of goodies like pesto, uncured duck sausage and duck bacon. The pantry abounds with sauces from Il Mulino and Rosa Mexicano, as well as condiments like Maldon sea salt. If you visit, don't forget to pick up a bag of those Taza organic cocoa nibs by the cash register!

Barnyard: 149 Avenue C, (212) 674-BARN. Daily sandwich specials.

Sweets News - Greenpoint and Williamsburg

• Cookie lovers in Greenpoint have been anxiously awaiting the opening of psychedelic-themed Cookie Road. The shop, which will serve Counter Culture coffee and an assortment of co-owner Aneta Szot's cookies, cakes and tarts (there's even a Liza Minnelli cookie), will be holding a meet-and-greet on Tuesday, March 3. Because the Department of Buildings has not yet issued the proper permits, no pastries will be on hand, but there will be free coffee! (Cookie Road: 94 Franklin St., Greenpoint, 718-383-8094.)
  

• Three-month-old Whisk, a delightful kitchen appliance store, contains a hidden surprise for the home baker. In the very center of the store, there's a tiny pantry stocked with edible glitter, turbinado, fondant and muscovado sugars, nonpareils, jimmies, and lots of other items to make a beautiful sweet. (Whisk: 231 Bedford Ave., Williamsburg, 718-218-7230.)
  

• You might have read about Mast Brothers Chocolate, which recently opened its newest location in Williamsburg (it had previously moved from the brothers' apartment to a Greenpoint space which was closed to the public). The factory, which produces chocolate from the bean to the bar, offers a truly special "Salt & Pepper" bar - a 60% cacao, dark milk chocolate confection made with brown sugar, sea salt and black peppercorns. According to Michael Mast, a line of truffles and hot chocolates is in the making. (Mast Brothers Chocolate: 105A North 3rd St., Williamburg, 718-388-2625. Open on Saturdays and Sundays.)

Winter Dining Deals in the Hamptons

This past weekend, my companion and I were reading the New York Times while taking the LIRR to East Hampton (we are big fans of off-season travel). I opened to the Escapes section and coincidentally happened upon the "Hamptons Before The Crowds" article. It mentioned winter deals at several lodging options (but conspicuously omitted the Mill House Inn, which is where my companion and I like to stay... on this visit, we had a great rate on a suite with a king bed, flat-screen TV, Serenity air jacuzzi, flat-screen TV, dual-head shower, and, of course, that famous breakfast).

It just so happens that the winter dining deals in the Hamptons are just as impressive as the lodging deals! Prix-fixe menus under $30 abound, especially on weekdays. My companion and sampled three of them during our stay.

We were most impressed by the $25 (three courses, or two courses with a glass of wine) prix-fixe at the 1770 House (29 Newtown Lane, East Hampton, 631-324-6300). In this historic dining room, the menu is divided into "From The Sea" and "From The Farm" sections. We ordered the organic smoked salmon tartare with potato crisps, an heirloom beet salad sprinkled with candied walnuts, perfectly seared diver scallops, and fettucini with black truffles, trumpet mushrooms, peas and Parmesan - the fettucini with Maine lobster was not available. The molten chocolate souffle cake with chunky peanut butter gelato is a must-try!

Nick and Toni's (136 North Main St., East Hampton, 631-324-3550) serves a special $30 Film and Food menu, which includes a ticket to the movies! My companion went with the $35 prix-fixe, choosing a chopped radish and cucumber salad, skirt steak on a bed of white beans, and chocolate custard. I ordered the creamy fennel soup special, a wonderful rigatoni with cauliflower, breadcrumbs and hot chili, and the poached pear hazelnut crisp. The next evening, we found ourselves at Della Femina (99 North Main St., East Hampton, 631-329-6666), which is quite popular with wine lovers. Some nights feature a free glass of house red or white. A $25 prix-fixe is served Sunday through Thursday, while a $30 menu is served on Friday and from 5:30-6:30 on Saturdays. What I most remember from this evening, besides the copious amount of wine, is the flourless chocolate souffle cake (obviously, I can't get enough of this dessert).

Hamptons Restaurant Week is coming up (March 29-April 5), and the $24.95 menus look mighty enticing. If you decide to pay a visit to the East End, here's my lodging tip: make a reservation at the Mill House Inn (31 North Main St., East Hampton, 631-324-9766) and enjoy the Restaurant Week discounts: $25 off for one night, or a $50 per night discount on more than one night. (Super suites are discounted by $50 or $100.)

Patel Brothers

The weak economy has many of us turning towards comfort food. A dish of rice and beans is protein-packed, filling, and cheap. But did you know that it can also be... exciting? Walk down the vast aisles of Patel Brothers in Jackson Heights and you'll be amazed at all the varieties of rice and beans. The back wall holds a rainbow of orange, yellow, white, green, and brown lentils (urad? toor? masoor? chana? moong? I can't even keep track of them all). There are all kinds of grains - thin and thick flattened rice (poha), giant bags of rice, spicy flour rings, and puffed lotus seeds.

Endless condiments and spices line the shelves. Mango, lime, garlic pickles? Mint or onion chutney? (I think I'll have to bring a dictionary of Indian spices with me the next time I visit. How to use... amla? asafoetida?) There is also a fresh produce section, and a freezer packed with novelties like mint-chili "paneer poppers" and cashew-raisin ice cream. And if the spicy cornflakes in the breakfast aisle are just too adventurous for you, look past them; there's a box of... Cheerios.

Patel Brothers: 37-27 74th St., Jackson Heights, (718) 898-3445.

Sweets News

Today's items focus, unsurprisingly, on chocolate!

• Jacques Torres will be giving a talk and holding a chocolate tasting at the 92nd Street Y on Monday, March 16, at 8 pm. (On a recent visit to his Brooklyn store, I was told that all of the nut butters used in the chocolates are homemade. So we can indulge in Mr. Torres' chocolate/peanut-butter truffles without worry! My undying favorite will always be the cinnamon-praline...)

• In other Jacques Torres-related news, on Friday, February 13, Harrah's Resort Atlantic City will be handing out Jacques Torres chocolates (and 5,000 free overnight Waterfront Tower stays!) to celebrate Mr. Torres' new Atlantic City store, Temptations Fine Chocolate and Coffee. The promotion takes place from 8:00 -10:00am at the corner of 48th St. & 6th Ave., and from noon - 1:00pm at the Jacques Torres Hudson Store (350 Hudson St.).
  

• Have you left Valentine's Day gifts till the last minute? Junior's has the solution: a chocolate ganache-covered cheesecake, baked in the shape of a heart. Call 1-800-9-JUNIOR!
  

• In April, Francois Payard released a fantastic new cookbook: "Chocolate Epiphany." His store on Lexington Avenue is offering a free postcard with one of the most popular recipes from the cookbook: spicy chcolate pots de creme.

• Finally, I just have to put in a word about Grom's hazelnut hot chocolate - if you haven't been drinking it all winter, make this the week to discover it!

Onda

The news from the Financial District is not all grim; a mini-Restaurant Row is taking root on Front Street between Peck Slip and Beekman. The latest opening is that of 2 1/2-week-old Onda. With its strong drinks, light bossa soundtrack, and cuisine full of zest and spice, this pan-Latin place might take the edge off one's longing for a Caribbean vacation. (I am suffering from such a longing, but whenever I choose a specific travel date, the vacation price inexplicably doubles.)

The room evokes a poolside courtyard at a tropical resort. Mexican tiles adorn the banquettes, and dim aqua light shimmers from the lanterns reflecting off of the metallic epoxy floor. Last night, a friend and I sat at a corner table at the back of the room, admiring the scene.

Our server brought by a Havana-style mojito and a bourbon drink with orange liqueur. The mojito was chock-full of mint, not too sweet, and so deceptively strong that I had to pause after drinking about an inch of it. It was a good time to pause, because just then, a basket of warm Manchego flatbread and paprika-dusted garbanzo spread arrived.

"What shall we order?" I wondered. There were salads, ceviches, hot appetizers, fish, meat, a paella and several sides. Several dishes sported an Asian influence, as chef Raymond Mohan is inspired by Chinese-Peruvian cuisine - a snapper ceviche contained tapioca pearls, and there was a Chifa-style fish.

We decided on two ceviches, smoked duck flatbread, Chifa-style branzino, Lima-style chicken, "Spanish" fries and asparagus. We were completely unprepared for the sheer amount of food that soon graced our table - the portions were exceedingly generous! The hamachi tiradito was a plate of rich yellowtail sashimi slices, dotted with small pineapple chunks and drizzled with yuzu creme fraiche. Striped bass ceviche in citrus sauce, served in a transparent red dish, had a real jalapeno kick - the accompanying passionfruit sorbet soothed the bite. We were to find that many of the dishes were accented with tropical fruit, but the main ingredients were never overpowered by it.

The smoked duck flatbread was a sort of pizza. A long oval dough was smothered with earthy porcini spread and melted Manchego. Rosy pink duck slices lay atop the cheese, each one with a sherried cherry. (This dish is a good choice for those who shrink from spicy.)

We were already approaching fullness at this point, but the impressive main courses soon followed. When my whole grilled branzino first arrived, I worried that it would be overwhelmed by its soy broth, but this was not the case at all - the soy-ginger sauce was very light and not salty, and the fish was as flavorful as could be. It was topped with cilantro leaves, scallions and jalapenos.

At $18, the Lima-style chicken was a feast for a king - a crispy-skinned half-chicken came with a spicy red onion slaw ("These are my favorite flavors," remarked my friend, "red onion, cilantro and jalapenos." She had obviously come to the right place!). We were embarrassed by how little we could finish of the thin asparagus slices in spicy aioli and the formidable mountain of Spanish fries. For the latter, a fork was a must - Idiazabal cheese was melted all over the potatoes. There were also red onions and jalapenos over top, but I forked them aside in favor of the buttery cheese.

We didn't expect to order dessert after all of this, but it's funny how that happens. Soon we were diving into caramelized rum bananas in a crispy cookie shell, and Chinese spoons containing eggless basil ice cream sprinkled with salted almond praline, and a truly remarkable warm chocolate cake. (A spoonful of fruit was intended for mixing in with the cake, but the dessert was already perfect with its scoop of vanilla bean ice cream.)

A good cup of coffee is essential at any Latin American restaurant, and I was supplied with a smooth Essse espresso. Sipping contentedly, I looked at my friend and said, "All we need now is a hammock."

Onda Restaurant: 229 Front St., (212) 513-0770.

Falai Panetteria

Falai Panetteria, the most casual of Iacobo Falai's three restaurants, is well-known for pear-chocolate tarts, chocolate fondants, tiramisu and other desserts. But what I didn't know is that the place serves an outstanding veggie lasagna (I have yet to try the bolognese). Light on the cheese, but heavy on sauce bursting with vibrant tomato flavor and a variety of tender vegetables, it set me back only around $10 tonight. Of course, that wasn't the only thing my friend and I ordered...

...there was also a great spinach gnocchi covered with melted Parmesan and smothered in fresh pesto, and a plate of rare, herb-crusted tuna slices on bruschetta, which were also topped with marvelously sweet roasted cherry tomatoes. I also have to mention the generous basket of focaccia with which we sopped up every last bit of pesto. Not one dish crossed the $13 mark, so we felt free to order to our hearts' (and appetites') content.

We finished with a "black moon" dome filled with chocolate mousse and spiced cream on a biscuit base - a disc of white and dark chocolate adorned the top. I restrained myself from taking home some of the semolina tarts that I'd enjoyed on a previous visit, but I know I'll be back soon - to try the lasagna bolognese.

Falai Panetteria: 79 Clinton St., (212) 777-8956.

Salumeria Rosi

A crush of people filled the narrow entrance of Salumeria Rosi this afternoon. They were craning their necks to catch a glimpse of the counter, which displayed prosciutto bread, purple cauliflower salad and Taleggio cheese. It took me a minute to differentiate between the eat-in and take-out lines. Once I figured this out, it took many more minutes to actually be seated. I watched as two tables were set, one was reset, and a table of three was reseated at a table more to their liking. Finally, the host (whom I suspect was irritated with me because of my apparent impatience) waved me, menuless, towards the bar.

Fortunately, once I did sit down, the kitchen was as fast as wildfire. Everything I ordered arrived in quick succession - and it was impossible not to order a whole host of items, as there's such a delightful variety at Salumeria Rosi. There are house-cured meats, goat, cow and sheep's milk cheeses, salads and various small plates.

First I went for the salumi and cheese, ordering the Parmigiano Reggiano and some porchetta toscana. A basket of crusty bread came with the dishes. Several chunks of sweet-salty hard cheese arrived on a balsamic-drizzled little plate. The two paper-thin slices of porchetta were redolent of rosemary and as tender as toro sashimi. I was glad for the lemony shredded endive salad that arrived afterwards (I recommend it as a palate cleanser).

Then it was time for sweet butternut squash risotto, which was absolutely wonderful. Crushed amaretti were sprinkled over a creamy orange expanse of butternut squash puree, which contained plump grains of Arborio rice. The portion size was perfect.

I really should have quit while I was ahead, but the dessert menu called to me. I settled on the torta di mele, which was light as air between its soft apple slices. A dollop of real whipped cream was served on the side. I finished the meal with a nice strong cup of espresso.

Good things come to those who wait!

Salumeria Rosi: 283 Amsterdam Ave., (212) 877-4800.

Restaurant Week - Fleur De Sel (CLOSED 2/09)

Once again, it's that wonderful time for year: "Restaurant Week" (it's actually two weeks - ETA, they just changed it to a month for this year). Last year, I dined at Riingo; this year, I decided on Fleur de Sel. The restaurant proved very accommodating to last-minute reservations changes; I'd asked for a table for two at 1 p.m., but our party suddenly expanded to three. On the phone, the reservationist said she could probably fit us in at a tight corner table that is sometimes used for trios, but when we arrived, we were comfortably seated at a table for four.

The $24.07 lunch menu included a choice of butternut squash soup or sardine napoleon, pan-seared blue cod or veal breast topped with a large oxtail ravioli, and macerated prune bread pudding or sorbet with meringue. All three of us ordered the same main course and dessert, but diverged with the appetizers. (There was an optional wine pairing, but it was just too early in the day for this - especially after last night's overindulgence at Artisanal.)

Warm sourdough bread got us going, and then the two of us who had ordered the soup drank in the heady flavors of truffle and coconut. A white puff of coconut milk foam decorated the bright orange squash puree, which was laced with truffle oil. The sardine napoleon was a savory curiosity (how do I eat this, my friend wondered) of three thin, crunchy Parmesan crackers layered with soft, salty sardines, and it was served with a small arugula salad.

The pan-seared blue cod lay atop a carrot coulis, which contained "rice beans" ("These are like the orzo of beans," remarked my friend. I'd been unaware of the existence of this legume and mistakenly thought the dish would be served with rice and beans), onions, diced tomatoes and chives - altogether delicious.

Warm, buttery bread pudding had a moist prune filling, and the side scoop of caramel ice cream melted appealingly into its bed of cookie crumbs. Strong coffee came with complimentary biscotti. (Although the restaurant was full, we were not rushed out after our coffee.)

Fleur de Sel will also be serving this menu next week.

Fleur de Sel: 5 East 20th St., (212) 460-9100.

Sweets News

• The newest location of the vaunted Roasting Plant (75 Greenwich Ave.) serves more than just coffee - it is also selling $1 "cookie dough shots." There are mint brownie, chocolate-chip and Oreo flavors, and when summer rolls around, you'll be able to mix the dough into the gelato of your choice.

• Here's a bit of cookbook news: Barbara Passino, the chef/owner of Napa Valley's Oak Knoll Inn, is about to release Chocolate For Breakfast, a selection of both sweet and savory recipes. Pre-order your copy, and soon you'll be making poached apples in chocolate gingerbread cookie cups, chocolate tacos, and even a chocolate omelette!

• But if you can't wait for the book's release, and you want to incorporate chocolate into your breakfast routine immediately, take a look at this lovely chocolate con churros recipe (and delightful article) from Alejandra Garcia on NPR.
  

Dirt Candy

The prospect of a hearty meal was the only thing that could pull me out of my apartment tonight. A friend had invited me out for a belated birthday dinner, so I'd reserved one of Dirt Candy's nine tables. As I walked outside, hail hit me on the head, and a harsh wind assaulted me. But all I could think about was the opportunity to reacquaint myself with Amanda Cohen's vegetarian cooking, which I had so admired at now-defunct Heirloom.

My friend and I started out with a plate of jalapeno hush puppies, happily smearing our spicy cornmeal crunchies with lots of maple-flavored butter. (Like all other dishes on the menu, the hush puppies can be made vegan on request. That does not mean that any random request will be fulfilled - I was surprised to overhear a diner try to order scrambled egg whites.) Next, we enjoyed bowls of vibrant, ginger-scented spinach soup. Not being cream-based, the soup was deliciously light. In each bowl floated three dumplings stuffed with smoked tofu and diced water chestnuts.

One of my favorite dishes of the evening was the portobello mousse appetizer with truffled toasts. The mousse had the texture of Japanese goma-dofu, but with an intense mushroom flavor instead of sesame. The square plate also included some sweet fennel-pear compote and a heap of meaty-tasting portobello slices.

Our main courses were arranged like meat-based dishes, with proteins at the center of beds of vegetables or grains. The crispy tofu resembled a seared salmon fillet, and it lay atop a melange of green vegetables like edamame and kohlrabi. I ordered the tempura egg on stone-ground grits... the white was well-done, but as I cut further in, the bright orange organic yolk ran out and swirled into the grits. There were also pickled shiitakes, corn kernels, watercress, and huitlacoche (edible black corn fungus) in the dish. I really don't think a meat-eater would go hungry at Dirt Candy! (According to Ms. Cohen, the majority of her clientele are not total vegetarians.)

A birthday isn't complete without dessert, and there were two versions of "cake and ice cream" on the menu. One featured sesame and grapefruit, the other, chocolate, sweet potato and chili. (The pastry chef, Debbie Lee, used to work at P*Ong, one my favorite restaurants. Incidentally, I was just there last night, devouring the hot dark chocolate with milk foam and pomegranate.) I ordered Cake and Ice Cream #2; there was a scoop of sweet potato sorbet adorned with a dried sweet potato chip, some chocolate chili ice cream, and a square of fudgy chocolate cake. (I just wish the cake had been hot, so I could have made a glorious mess with the ice cream and sorbet. But the dessert was still very enjoyable!)

Maybe I'm jumping the gun, as I just got home, but my next visit to Dirt Candy will involve mixed greens with grilled cheese croutons, carrot risotto, and popcorn pudding.

Dirt Candy: 430 East 9th St., (212) 228-7732.

Chocolates for All Personality Types

It's never too early to start thinking about Valentine's Day - and all of its attendant chocolates! My little list of chocolates by personality will ensure that your chocolate gift is as unique as the person you're buying it for:

• The Earthy-Crunchy: Your environmentally aware friend will appreciate a recycled box of Fine & Raw's dark chocolate bonbons made with raw blue agave nectar, virgin coconut oil and a touch of Himalayan sea salt. (To me, they taste like adult Mounds bars, but without all the cloying sweetness.) You can find these at gourmet or natural food stores around the city - I happened to get mine at Sustainable (109 Ave. A, 212-254-5400).
  

• The Artsy-Fartsy: The aesthete will marvel at a box of beautifully decorated truffles from Eric Gererd's L'Atelier Du Chocolat (59 West 22nd St., 212-243-0033). I first tasted Mr. Gererd's chocolates at Brooklyn's Bierkraft in 2003. Although none of the beer flavors have made it to the new menu, there's a wasabi truffle with a bamboo leaf pattern, a red-and-brown zig-zagged red forest fruit in dark chocolate ganache, and a heart-covered rosewater truffle. For Valentine's Day, there will be special hollow chocolate hearts! It's enough to make you feel like you're in love, even if you aren't.

• The Comfort Foodie: What could be more comforting, or more chocolatey, than the double chocolate and triple chocolate cupcakes at Dessert Club Chikalicious (204 East 10th St., 212-475-0929)? Call the night before Valentine's Day and they will make up a pretty box for you.

• The Do-It-Yourselfer: Give someone a chocolate truffle; you have fed her for today. Teach someone to make her own chocolate truffles, and you have fed her for a lifetime. A gift certificate towards the French Culinary Institute's upcoming "Chocolate Truffles, Bonbons & More" course will go a long way towards making your special someone into an expert chocolatier. You might indirectly benefit! (More info at 888-324-CHEF.)
  

Tacos Mexico

This week, New York Magazine includes a list of the best foods under $10. Although the list neglects Queens, if you're willing to take the N train a few stops past Lexington & 59th St. into Astoria, you'll find one of the very best (and most delicious) deals in town: the awesome chiles rellenos at Tacos Mexico. Try to finish them, I dare you! Two mild green peppers are lightly battered, stuffed with melted queso blanco, smothered in a hearty tomato sauce, and served with a three-day supply of refried pinto beans, Spanish rice, and five or six warm tortillas. Price? $10.95.

And if you want something other than a stuffed pepper, you can order: nachos, tamales, quesadillas, flautas, chalupas, tostadas, tacos, tortas, cemitas, sopes, huaraches, burritos, enchiladas, chilaquiles, and giant plates of chicken, beef or pork fajitas. Wash everything down with a glass of horchata, and don't forget to take your to-go bag home with you. Happy New Year!

Tacos Mexico: 32-08 38th St., Astoria, (718) 545-5888.

Corton

I've been meaning to get to Corton ever since I heard that chef Paul Liebrandt had a new home. Tonight, I celebrated my umpteenth birthday with some relatives, and this lovely cream-and-gold restaurant was the venue. Liebrandt's dishes are thrilling landscapes that inspire the diner to explore every nook and cranny. Even a vegetable plate ("From The Garden") is full of delicious surprises! But more on that in a bit.

While we sipped glasses of 2006 Chavy-Martin Puligny-Montrachet, my relatives mentioned that they had been chatting with owner Drew Nieporent - apparently, he always wanted to be in the restaurant business, and even watched the Galloping Gourmet as a child. (He's a friendly presence at his latest restaurant.)

We munched on gougeres and fluffy green olive breads, and smeared green-flecked seaweed butter on mini-baguettes. Then, the server arrived to answer questions (what is kalamansi? an Indian fruit resembling a kumquat. what about cobia? a meaty, firm, sharklike fish). We decided to order the $75 three-course meal, opposed to the $120 tasting menu.

Our amuse-bouche was a chilled oyster nestled in gelee, anointed with nutmeg oil and sprinkled with grains of buckwheat (my relatives aren't shellfish fans, so I was the lucky recipient of three of them). I ended up paying them back in king crab tempura; my velvety kuri squash soup featured two pieces of it, as well as a non-fried chunk of sweet crabmeat sprinkled with gold leaf. Other dishes were a beautiful circle of Nantucket Bay scallops, baby greens and raw radishes with an orange sea urchin sauce at the center, and the marvelous "From The Garden." (I don't think I've ever been so excited by a vegetable plate.) Various tiny root vegetables, potatoes, caramelized onions, greens, tapenades, dried vegetable powders, and the odd fruit were arranged in such a way that the tastes changed depending on where your fork landed - here was a patch of sweetness, or a tangy zing, or a paper-thin crispness.

Then it was time for the main courses. Succulent Label Rouge chicken was accompanied by a polenta cake topped with a slice of black truffle, artichokes Barigoule, and a breaded chicken meatball with a compote of diced autumn fruits. Golden amadai, a bream-like fish, was the centerpiece for a ring of sweet onions and melt-in-your-mouth ricotta-parmesan gnudi. Razor clam chowder, added at the last minute, added even more richness. Portions were not overpowering, however.

A coconut sorbet in a blood orange foam, which hid pearls of black tapioca, announced the dessert course. The sweets were excellent, and the artisanal cheese plate was a selection of perfection! It showcased the creamy, sharp, sweet and pungent flavors of Stilton, Langa La Tur from the Piedmont region, Comte, an award-winning Pleasant Ridge Gruyere from Wisconsin, and a wonderful goat cheese. Salted focaccia and cranberry toasts came with the plate. I was momentarily distracted from my gooey-centered, warm chocolate fondant cake with its scoop of ice milk in a sea of cocoa nibs, and a caramel apple dessert with walnuts.

Fortunately, there were two more opportunities to appreciate the chocolate creations of pastry chef Robert Truitt. Milk chocolate/ginger, white chocolate/blackberry and dark chocolate/lime discs soon arrived, and then the server brought by actual drawers full of goodies. One drawer held chocolate towers filled with curried peanut butter, another contained tiny lemon, caramel and espresso macarons, and yet another held a collection of spiced fig/red wine and jasmine-grapefruit chocolates, palets d'or, and salted butter caramels. If only I'd been allowed to take home a box!

Corton: 239 West Broadway, (212) 219-2777.

Bar Breton

The new Bar Breton has a winning formula for these troubled times: galettes (buckwheat crepes) in the $10-$15 range and lots of alcohol! Small plates run about $7, and as I found out, at least one of them is hearty enough for a meal. (There are also a few mains around $20.)

In more of an eating than a drinking mood, I tried to go in on Tuesday, but was told that dinner wasn't served until 5 p.m., although the bar is open all day. (I had a similar experience when Bar Milano first opened; not everyone goes the Bar Stuzzichini route of all-day dining. Oh well!) I'm quite determined when I have to be, so I returned yesterday at 5 p.m. sharp. Chef Cyril Renaud was explaining the origin of the multi-colored glasses that hung from the lighting fixture to some inquisitive diners (journalists?). I tried to eavesdrop, but was soon led to a little booth.

Several galettes looked enticing - according to the menu, the buckwheat flour used to make them is organic and gluten-free. I was going to order the Black Forest ham with Gruyere and egg, but then opted for the wild smoked salmon galette. Instead of being spread out over a plate, it was served like sushi. Rolled-up sections of chocolate-brown crepe were stuffed with a mild horseradish-onion cream and assembled in a neat row upon a stone block. Each piece was topped with a slice of smoked salmon and some red onion.

I wolfed it down in about a minute, realizing that I was going to have to order something else! My eye traveled between the "niac" (small plate) section and the desserts. Profiteroles? Pot de creme with chicory? Nutella crepe? Sardines? Or pate? I settled on the salt-baked potato with oxtail and grey sea salt ($7). This was quite a hearty dish, even more so than the galette. A peeled potato had its insides scooped out, replaced with a rich, delicious oxtail stew. Now I was too full for dessert.

But I'm almost afraid to go back, because I've a feeling I'll be a goner once I try the Nutella dessert crepe.

Bar Breton: 254 Fifth Ave., (212) 213-4999.

Katsuno Restaurant

If you're a regular at Midtown's Restaurant Seo, you might be wondering where Chef Katsuyuki Seo is. It turns out that his fans out in Forest Hills are borrowing him for a little while. Seo, who just opened Katsuno in the former Ran space on Metropolitan Avenue, is arranging lovely plates at the sushi bar while his kitchen turns out specialties like grilled miso-marinated beef, steamed Asari clams, eel with cucumber vinaigrette, and those noodles everyone has come to love at Seo's original restaurant.

There are eight tables in the front of Katsuno (seven of which were full tonight), and two semi-private tables in back. Tonight, people around me were indulging in oshitashi, sea urchin sashimi, and chawan mushi. To start, I ordered a bowl of miso soup (the menu features both red and white versions) with seaweed, scallions and nice big chunks of tofu. My next course was three half-moons of sweet stewed pumpkin in a light dashi. The hearty orange vegetable was sprinkled with bits of yuzu zest.

My main course was a generous portion of grilled miso-marinated cod, its skin lightly charred. A dab of sweet white miso sauce complemented the rich fish, which was served with a big bowl of rice. (Next to me, a couple consumed a plate of rare sliced beef with daikon and citrus ponzu sauce.) Although I was tempted by the sushi menu ("Please ask for today's imported fresh fish from Japan," it said), I had no more room... maybe I'll go back tomorrow.

If you want to try out Katsuno for yourself, you might want to visit on Saturday, Dec. 20 from 5-7 p.m., when the restaurant is throwing a "grand opening party." You'll be able to eat all you want for $25! The menu will include cold soba, grilled chicken in lemon sauce, shrimp tempura salad, and sushi, among other dishes. Bring your own wine and beer - Katsuno expects to receive its liquor license in the next few months.

Katsuno Restaurant: 103-01 Metropolitan Ave., Forest Hills, (718) 575-4033.

Holidays 2008

We're all trying to "tighten our belts" this season. But some of us are also planning on loosening our (literal) belts a few notches! So if you and your friends are still indulging your palates, here are some holiday gift recommendations:

• Those who give home-baked gifts should peruse this extensive online cookie encyclopedia; Gourmet Magazine has made 50 years of Christmas cookie recipes available.

• If you have no time to bake, let Chuck "The Baker" Pierkarski bake for you! Every batch of his brownies helps benefit God's Love We Deliver.
  

• Your friend who wants to learn to cook will love a copy of Martha Stewart's Cooking School: Lessons and Recipes for the Home Cook.

• If you want to splurge on that special someone, Petrossian offers a mouthwatering brunch basket filled with caviar, smoked salmon, duck breast prosciutto, blini; toasts, creme fraiche, honey, cinnamon raisin bread, cranberry ginger cake, chestnut jam, coffee and tea. But even Petrossian is getting into the economizing act; there are several delicious gifts for $100 and under.

• Send a Murray's Cheese Greenwich Village Supper basket to a friend (and then slyly ask to be invited for dinner). (Alternatively, send over a Zabar's Deli Sampler.)
  

• Online retailer Norm Thompson offers adorable, inexpensive holiday sweets.

• Is your friend a restaurant-goer? Then s/he'll appreciate a gift certificate to Hill Country (buy a $25 gift certificate for only $10 at restaurant.com!) or the always-rewarding Picholine, which is now offering a special "menu d'economie."
  

If I think of anything else, I'll post it! Happy holidays.

Demel

It's pouring out today, but if you can bring yourself to leave the apartment, there's a cozy new bakery-cafe you must check out. About a week ago, Austria's famous Demel (founded 1786) set up shop down in the depths of the Plaza's retail area. If you go, I recommend that you order a double espresso with whipped cream (all coffee comes with sugared, chocolate-covered hazelnuts) while you make your selection from one of the most enticing dessert menus in the city. Then, sit back and hope your selection hasn't already been consumed by another lucky patron! When I visited yesterday, I delighted in the warm milk souffle cake with a flask of thick vanilla cream, the dense chocolate truffle cake, the yogurt cheesecake layered with raspberries, and a slice of pound cake topped with strawberries and kiwis. But the signature Viennese apple strudel, Sacher torte and chocolate nougat cakes were but a memory.

Apparently, pastry chefs Edward Jemal and Rahout Michael make daily deliveries to Demel, but if this insatiable demand continues, they will have to deliver on the hour!

Demel: The Plaza Retail Collection, 1 West 58th St., (212) 572-0989.

Zenkichi

In its own simple way, Zenkichi is one of the most beautiful restaurants in Brooklyn. The dark, wood-paneled triplex is a labyrinth of hushed, narrow hallways lined with semi-private dining rooms. Each little room is separated by a bamboo curtain, which the server opens and closes. (If you order the multi-course omakase, as my companion and I did, there's a lot of opening and closing!) The place reminded me of Higashi-Yama Tokyo.

The $48 omakase menu changes every five weeks, and can be accompanied by a flight of sake. Our sakes were arranged in order of sweetness, and contained notes of dark chocolate, citrus and cantaloupe. My favorite was the Shichiken Junmai Ginjo (the chocolatey one). (There is also an assortment of dessert sakes, but I'll have to save those for the next visit!)

Our first course was a bowl of soup made hearty with strips of fried tofu. Then it was time for sashimi: slices of seasoned bigeye tuna atop a bed of julienned peppers, carrots and onions, rich monkfish liver seasoned with Japanese lime, and clean-tasting sea bream.

A yuzu-dressed baby arugula salad featured small chunks of free-range chicken and hen-of-the-woods mushrooms from Shizuoka. Disks of sea-urchin-stuffed fluke tempura were so tasty that we later ordered another tempura dish from the a la carte menu: tiger shrimp oozing with melted squares of Camembert. The tempura was accompanied by sprays of green tea salt and bowls of tentsuyu. (I love green tea salt and wish they served it on popcorn in movie theatres.)

Luscious black cod was lovingly prepared, marinated in salt for one night and Kyoto miso for two. The sake-scented fish was sweet and melted like butter. Tiger shrimp shinjo were two small shrimp/fish cake balls in a subtle broth. (For this course, the diner has a choice between shinjo and slow-cooked pork belly.) The final course before dessert was a plate of seared Mishima beef sushi, accented with ginger garlic soy sauce.

We really indulged in dessert, ordering three more items in addition to the dense chocolate cake with yuzu-topped yogurt-honey ice cream! My companion dug into a soft kabocha pumpkin pudding with ginger syrup and toasted pumpkin seeds, I finished off the nutty kinako cheesecake, and we both cleansed our palates with a grapefruit half filled with bright red grapefruit jelly. I suppose we'll be back in five weeks to see what else the chef has in store for us!

Zenkichi Modern Japanese Brasserie: (718) 388-8985, 77 North 6th St., Brooklyn.

Pure Dark

Does the cold weather have you craving a pick-me-up? You'll find one at the new Pure Dark chocolate shop on Bleecker. Open since the beginning of October, the rustic store sells only the highest-quality, highest-cocoa-content (50% and up) dark chocolate. You can buy it in a slab, a nib or a hunk of bark. But the most unique way to consume it is at the mixing bar! Four different blends of chocolate nibs, fruits and nuts are sold, but you can also hand-pick your own "custom mix" of, say, chocolate, walnuts, and cranberries. This delicious yet nutritious trail mix will give you plenty of energy for your holiday shopping. And if you plan to do your holiday shopping at Pure Dark, here's a cool gift idea: layer a clear, multi-tiered vase with different chocolate mixes.

(Note to bloggers: Apparently, the taking of photos is strictly prohibited inside this store, as I found out when I tried to snap one with my cell phone. This is a shame - if more restaurants and shops institute this rule, it's going to make our job a lot harder!)

Pure Dark: 350 Bleecker St., (212) 367-0920.

Al Di La

To visit Al Di La on a Sunday night is to enter a world where there is no recession. People angle for a good spot in the line out the door, and pepper the host with endless questions about the optimal time for scoring a table. "I'm very sorry, but I don't know what the wait will be at 7." It has been this way for ten years, ever since the little Italian restaurant (arguably the best in Park Slope) opened. The no-reservations policy and cramped communal tables dissuade no one from luxuriating in the wonderful tastes and smells that emanate from chef Anna Klinger's kitchen.

My last dinner at Al Di La had been about five years ago, but I noticed that the menu still listed those delicious malfatti and casunziei, and the hanger steak with arugula that is my companion's favorite. What to order? Rabbit with creamy polenta and olives? Risotto nero? Along came the waiter to make our decision more difficult: anchovy-dressed green salad, homemade spaghetti with lamb ragu, oh, and "there are only two more orders of short ribs." My friend and I started with the special saba-dressed greens, which arrived with fresh rosemary-scented focaccia and a small hunk of buttery Taleggio. The light, sweet, grapey dressing matched the plump cooked white grapes in the focaccia.

I ordered the linguine with clams - simple is beautiful! Lots of minced garlic and the perfect amount of red pepper (my mouth was pleasantly warmed after each bite) made this one of the best versions ever. My friend let me try her spaghetti with lamb ragu - lots of sharp pecorino and pepper livened up the rich, stick-to-your-ribs meat sauce. Our side dish was a bowl of red beets with creamy goat cheese dressing.

We were stuffed, but skipping dessert at Al Di La is a grievous offense. Although the specials included an apricot almond tart, a lime-leaf panna cotta and fig ricotta gelato, I remembered that incredibly buttery warm pear chocolate tart with the big melted dark chocolate chips and the dollop of fresh whipped cream, and that is what I devoured. My friend, who normally doesn't do dessert, finished off a tall glass of large blocks of frozen chocolate-hazelnut fudge (gianduiotto). Two glasses of port, and I wondered why I don't make the trip out to Park Slope more often. (Port makes the R train a little more bearable.)

Al Di La: 248 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 636-8888.

Sweets News

• If you want to consume a lot of sweets while simultaneously burning off the calories, do I have an event for you! Bruce Scher of Walking Tours Manhattan will be leading a "Free NYC Dessert Fest" chocolate/gelato/cupcake tour on Sunday, Dec. 7 at 10:30 am. Meet at the West Village's Magnolia Bakery (401 Bleecker St.), and look for the guy wearing a red baseball hat with the "Free NYC Dessert Fest" logo. The tour will last around 2 hours, but the sweet memories will last a lot longer.

• Looking for that unique Thanksgiving dessert? The Chocolate Room Brooklyn is baking up a limited amount of their spectacular chocolate pecan pies. Call (718) 783-2900 to place an order.

The 11th Annual Chocolate Show

Pulsating music courses through the speakers, and giant glossies of red-lipped models decorate the entrance to Pier 94. But don't worry, you haven't wandered into a fashion show by mistake; this year's Chocolate Show just has an extra emphasis on style. The visual focus extends to many of the chocolates!

Virginie Duroc-Danner of France fashions extraordinarily beautiful confections in many different colors. Her bright crocodile boxes filled with truffles make a great gift, and children will clamor for her ladybugs and teddy bears filled with salted butter toffee.

Christopher Michael and Christopher Norman also offer ornate, multicolored chocolates. The Mary's of Japan exhibit showcases a new line of ganaches decorated with delicate Japanese flowers - you can watch the chocolatiers hand-painting them. Boissier is selling pink tins of little chocolate petals. Romanicos is selling smart-looking chocolate sushi. Those who covet an attractive wrapper as much as its contents will want to visit the Bloomsberry stand.

This year's chocolate-dressed mannequins feature Wonder Woman, Batgirl and Iron Man costumes. And if you want to see a master chocolatier create a work of art before your very eyes, don't forget to see Derrick Pho's homage-in-progress to our new President-elect! Pho's medium is Callebaut.

You might be thinking, "Yes, I want to see everything, but I also want to TASTE everything!" Here are my tasting tips:

• The Valrhona stand is verrry generous with the samples (dark chocolate orange peels, mmm). (Don't forget to visit the new Valrhona Boutique at the Food Emporium at 1175 Third Ave. In other openings, the new Lily O'Brien's Chocolate Cafe is opening at 36 West 40th Street in mid-December.)

• An absolute must-try: the Guido Gobino goodies. I had the opportunity to interview this master of gianduja for an upcoming article in Dessert Professional, and I can tell you that there is nothing on the planet like Gobino's olive oil/sea salt cremini. You can't find them at any store in the U.S., so stock up at the show!

• This year, you can find Mexican hot chocolate at the Chuao Chocolate stand, and espresso cocoa at Chocolat Moderne.

• Fairytale Brownies are back with Belgian chocolate cream-cheese brownies.
  

• One of the most exotic tastes you will encounter is the "Pig Candy" at Roni-Sue's - it's chocolate-covered deep-fried bacon! Roni-Sue also has a new line of pumpkin spice truffles - just in time for Thanksgiving.
  

• But if you're a chocolate purist, go for the single-origin, 67% cacao bars at the Republica Del Cacao. According to the vendor, the Maniba bar has a hint of mango because the beans are grown near mango trees. Also, make sure to snag a bunch of couverture wafers at Guittard. (Guittard is always forthcoming with the samples!)
  

Finally, if you plan to eat so much chocolate that you develop stretch marks, your last stop should be Palmer's, where you can pick up a jar of cocoa butter lotion.

The 11th Annual Chocolate Show: Pier 94 (12th Ave. @ West 55th St.)

New York Taste 2008

I've just returned from the 2008 edition of New York Taste, a/k/a "The Most Dangerously Gut-Busting Event in NYC." This year, the gala was held in the 18,000-square-foot Skylight. Somehow, in the midst of all the food and drink and fabulous people, I ran into HungryMan and Nosher, my buddies from NYCNosh. "So, Salli Vates, what is a must-try?" they asked me.

"Well," I began, "you've got to have Le Bernardin's brown butter cream topped with sweet potato caviar and pistachios, with a bottom layer of red wine caramel. Maybe you're not ready for dessert yet, but it's one of the most spellbinding dishes I've tried tonight." HungryMan and Nosher hurried over to the Le Bernardin table (well, as fast as you can hurry in a crowd as dense as the 6 train during rush hour). They heartily agreed with me. "What else?"

"Hmm. Well, I really liked the two chefs from across the pond, Tom Aikens and Anthony Demetre. Aikens has a delicious salt cod brandade salad; it looks like a miniature English garden with dill, scallions, cucumber and yellow edible flowers. And Demetre is serving a tender smoked eel with horseradish. Oh, and you must eat Adour's chocolate-hazelnut croustillant with orange granita!" Nosher thought the granita had a bit too much ginger, but everyone agreed about the brandade.

Some other dishes I really enjoyed were: The Spotted Pig's flavorful haddock chowder topped with a homemade cracker; the goose breast with chestnut dumplings of Table 8, a restaurant due to open at the Cooper Square Hotel in December; Anita Lo's subtle tea-smoked salmon, Allegretti's Provencal deboned rabbit; and Eighty-One's plump seared scallop with truffled celery root puree in a chestnut bacon broth. Wait, I'm forgetting something. Well, Craftsteak was serving up Wagyu brisket and truffled grits, and Riingo had a miso-cured salmon, and Craig Koketsu featured some wild savory caramel apples in bacon, pumpkin seed and sage flavors.

Of course, there was alcohol galore, both edible and drinkable. Chef Carmen Gonzalez, who is releasing an exciting new cookbook, served a full menu using Bacardi flavored rums. I loved her flan with orange Bacardi-spiked salsa. Her other offerings were pork bites, seared tuna and coquitos. I had to be careful, though - last year, I indulged in too much drink. So, even though there was a lot of Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur and red wine, I mostly stuck to the Fiji water! All the better to eat it with, my dear.

Finally, it was time to focus on dessert. HungryMan, Nosher and I missed the presence of Payard, but we made sure to dig into Oceana's rectangle of chocolate/peanut butter mousse with green apple gelee and the one-bite hot chocolate "lollipop" donuts from Blaue Gans. HungryMan dared me to have another helping of the brown butter cream - but I couldn't.

However, I made sure to enter the Virgin Atlantic raffle. If I win two tickets to London, I'm heading straight to Tom Aiken's restaurant! By that time, I will have regained my appetite.

Terroir

Attention Terroir fans: as of last weekend, the ultra-popular wine bar is serving brunch! So you'll have another chance to grab one of the bar's coveted seats. There are four new dishes: French toast with warm maple syrup and pork sausage, bacon egg and cheese on ciabatta, a rapini-bacon frittata, and smoked salmon sandwich with capers and hard-boiled eggs.

I took my seat at the bar this past Sunday morning, anxious to try one of the new brunch items. But I was distracted by the regular menu, specifically the fried mozzarella and the white anchovy panini. All sandwiches are served on Sullivan Street Bakery bread, and while it would be almost impossible to make a mediocre sandwich with that bread, mine was particularly delicious. The crusty toasted ciabatta was splashed with a bit of balsamic, and then topped with crunchy frisee, delicately sliced hard-boiled eggs (more yolk than white), sweet pickled red onions, and marvelous white anchovies. Everything was sprinkled with a bit of black pepper (it's the details that are important!). I also devoured a bowl of parsley-and-Parmesan-dusted fried bocconcini in a hearty tomato sauce. (Next time I intend to take advantage of the charcuterie and cheese; I'm curious about a cheese with the name "Constant Bliss.")

It was too early for me to have some wine, but I enjoyed reading the funky little book of a menu - it contained a history of Chateauneuf du Pape, a large list of Rieslings with residual sugar, and a tongue-in-cheek poem entitled "Wine In A Box."

The restaurant owners, Marco Canora and Paul Grieco, have such a fixation with sherry that they serve free glasses of it from 5-6. They've also employed a designer to create a line of temporary "Jerez" tattoos! "I think I'm going to cover my entire body with them for Halloween," the bartender told me. He also informed me that there was a special bacon crumb cake dessert (I think I saw something similar to this at the Dessert Truck), but I was too full.

I find it interesting that the coasters implore the customers not to waste their food. At Terroir, how could you?

Terroir: 413 East 12th St. No phone.

Sweets News

Here are your Sweets News items for October 30, 2008:

• Kyotofu, the Japanese bakery, is celebrating its second anniversary by handing out free sweets! Stop by today and pick up some shiso-coconut and yuzu-vanilla cupcakes. (705 9th Ave., 212-974-6012.)
  

• Are you looking for some scary sweets for Halloween? Silver Moon Bakery has just what you need: pumpkin shortbread cookies, orange-iced chocolate and vanilla buttercream cupcakes, and "ghost cakes!" There's also a "bread of the dead." (Spooky!) (2740 Broadway, 212-866-4717.)

• As you may know, Chocolatier Magazine, and its sister publication, Pastry Art & Design, have been consolidated into the new Dessert Professional Magazine. If you pick up the September/October issue, you'll see my little guide to eating all of the chocolate in Torino, Italy.
  

Lucky Cheng's

Lucky Cheng's, which might be described as a meeting between China Grill and La Cage Aux Folles, is something of a New York institution. Since 1993, it's been famous for its impossibly fabulous drag queen waitresses and risque dinner shows. There's lots of entertainment: off-color comedy routines, balloons fashioned into shapes you'd never see at a children's party, souvenir thongs, and a tableside tarot reader named Angel Eye. (I don't know if she gives financial forecasts.) The three-course dinner-and-show combo is $32, with supplements for certain items.

When I visited this weekend, the couple next to me was utilizing Angel Eye's services. The music was such a volume that the boyfriend didn't hear his date ask the psychic about marriage. No matter, he was soon pulled onstage by "Rhapsody In Blue," an amazingly athletic dancer with glittering blue eyeshadow. Rhapsody announced the start of the amateur lap dance competition. An entire table of 21-year-olds dissolved into giggles as the boyfriend was relieved of his shirt. (He wouldn't be the last victim!)

As for the food, I found the fried-er, the better! My favorite dish was a plate of three jumbo shrimp encased in a thinly fried crust. Other items seemed to differ from the menu descriptions; there weren't any black sesame seeds in the black-and-white sesame salmon, and a Thai basil pesto was more like a black bean sauce. (But who really cares when you've having so much fun? Besides, there's cheesecake with raspberries and whipped cream for dessert.) The couple next to me enjoyed their fried rice and pan-roasted duck, although the boyfriend was too busy dancing to eat most of it.

The lap dance winners were chosen, smiles abounded and my mood was much lighter than it was at the start of the evening. (Have to stop watching that C-SPAN.) I went over to the host to thank him for a fun night, and when I told him my pseudonym, he said, "Salli Vates - that's a great drag name."

Lucky Cheng's: 24 1st Ave., (212) 995-5500.

A Sweet Trip to Beacon, NY

Beacon, a sort of Williamsburg-on-the-Hudson, is known for its spectacular modern art museum and countless small galleries. It's also a great place to enjoy the fall foliage. Best of all, the town offers many opportunities for serious sugar shock!

Beacon is home to Dutchess County's oldest candy store, the Alps Sweet Shop (269 Main St., 845-831-8240). Alps sells all the old favorites like champagne truffles, fruit gels, almond turtles and licorice, but it's the Halloween candy that is truly impressive! Chocolate witches, jack-o-lanterns, bats, eyeballs, spiders, skulls and ghosts will delight your trick-or-treaters. If you like your sweets less macabre, treat yourself to one of Alps' amazing "Ultimate Apples." (Don't worry, they're not that virtuous - heavy layers of chocolate and caramel have robbed them of most nutritional content.)

After you've filled your goodie bag, go across the street to Max's on Main (46 Main St., 845-838-6297). There, you'll find two of the most decadent desserts known to man: the Fi-Doh-Doh (a blondie covered with vanilla ice cream, chocolate sauce, whipped cream, white chocolate and caramel glaze) and the Fi-Dah-Dah (the chocolate bundt cake variation).

The Upper Crust Cafe & Bakery is no more (it will soon be an upscale cafe), but HomeSpun Foods (232 Main St., 845-831-5096) is a wonderful stopover for pastry. Crumbly, buttery pear/raspberry jam scones, fig tarts, bread pudding and fresh-baked chocolate-chip cookies are some of the delights served at HomeSpun. Also, check out the small gift section; it features beautifully-designed Ludomar chocolate bars.

Now I've got to tell you about something really special: the artisanal popsicles at Zora Dora (201 Main St., 646-206-3982). Have you ever tried a vanilla-beet tie-dye popsicle? Or a chocolate-chipotle chunk? How about Italian coffee bean, or roasted bananas with saffron and pistachio (out of this world). Zora Dora, which uses Ronnybrook Dairy and local produce in its ices and creams, has been open since June. The store is already producing ice cream for restaurants all over Beacon and nearby Cold Spring.

So now your lips are chattering. Put down that popsicle, and before you get back on the train, warm up with a cup of cocoa at Muddy Cup (129 Main St., 845-831-1003). The cafe serves just about every variety imaginable, from cinnamon-chocolate to chocolate-cherry to peppermint patty cocoa.

(Note: Be advised that when visiting Beacon on a Monday, you won't be able to enjoy a pierogi at Marlena's, a pad thai at Sukhothai, or a cup of tea at The Cup & Saucer Tea Room. However, there are plenty of other goodies!)

Oh, Olana!

Last week's NYC Wine & Food Grand Tasting was packed with people. I was tripping over wineglasses and bumping into briefcases while I tried to grab all the goodies. There were Kobe beef hot dogs, cups of carrot ginger soup, truffled pizzas... in my excitement, I tried to take a butternut squash root beer float before it was ready, evoking a stern rebuke. "This stand is all about please and thank you!" "I'm sorry, please," I mumbled.

But then I saw the welcoming face of Al Di Meglio, chef/co-owner of newcomer Olana. He was dishing out pumpkin tortelli with crushed amaretti. The delicious pasta, and Mr. Di Meglio's charming manner, convinced me to check out the restaurant. I brought a friend there just a couple days later.

The service was just as welcoming as Mr. Di Meglio had been. "We've been waiting for you," smiled the host. We requested a table in the back, away from the noisy, sceney bar.

Olana is located in the former Mad 28 Italian restaurant. It was completely renovated; the pizza oven's stone wall was knocked down to make way for a pretty private room that seats 35. The bar features elderflower mojitos, little bites like crispy onion rings and lamb burgers, and plenty of people-watching! But if the bar is Dos Caminos, the restaurant is Blue Hill. All ingredients are sourced from farms, and the butter, ice cream and pasta are homemade. Right now, the menu includes all those wonderful autumn tastes: butternut squash, chestnuts, celery root, nutmeg and spiced pears.

Although my friend and I were tempted by the trio of pasta (mint tacconi in lamb sausage ragu, cauliflower ham risotto and squash tortelli with shaved Grana Padano), we decided to go with the $48 prix fixe. Our server brought by four different rolls and two different butters, and then we went at our pork shoulder terrine amuse-bouche.

My butternut squash soup was a delightful little spectacle. The server produced a flask of bright orange puree, and poured it into my small glass dish, which contained mushrooms, bits of mushroom flan and a flourish of smoked cinnamon cream. My friend chose the ricotta-stuffed chestnut crespelle in a sauce of sage and brown butter. The crepe was moderately sized but deliciously rich.

"Is this nutmeg?" asked my friend as he tasted the spaghetti squash that came with his roasted free-range chicken. The chicken had been completely deboned except for one decorative drumstick. I dug into the roasted local brook trout... crispy on top and meaty, it lay next to a little pile of herbed baby artichokes, little red onion curlicues, black kale leaves, baby carrots, and a surprise: shrimp dumplings the size of small scallops.

Mr. Di Meglio came over to inform us about a special event on Oct. 27 where he'll host the upstate farmers that provide Olana's ingredients. He also talked about his upcoming Thanksgiving menu. Mains will include slow-cooked turkey breast and leg confit, roasted prime rib, spice-glazed heritage ham with quince mustard, and herb-crusted salmon. Diners will be able to order the side dishes (pecan candied yams, black truffle mashed potatoes, orange-cranberry sauce) family style. (If you come with my family, you'd better make sure you get some of the potatoes before we finish them all.)

My friend and I then attacked our intensely butterscotchy sticky date pudding. The warm pudding arrived next to a scoop of bracing pomegranate sorbet - I imagine the sorbet is supposed to help you get through the rich pudding! The final touch was a plate of homemade mint marshmallows, a cute ceramic pot of dark chocolate fondue, and some butter cookies.

I never get enough of the local/seasonal food craze, and Olana's elegant yet comforting cuisine will have me coming back for more.

Olana: 72 Madison Ave., (212) 725-4900.

Cooking With Bettina Fisher

My kitchen smells amazing right now - it's filled with the aromas of foaming butter, fresh basil, and garlic. This is because I just had a visit from Bettina Fisher. And who is Bettina Fisher? A talented food stylist, caterer, and chef who just happens to teach at-home cooking classes!

If you've been reading this blog for any length of time since its inception in 2002, you probably know that I love food. However, this love does not translate into cooking expertise; I'm not the sharpest tack in the kitchen drawer. Hence my call to Bettina! She sent me a short questionnaire about my likes, dislikes and cooking goals, and then suggested some delicious dishes like halibut in fragrant lemongrass tomato broth, bacon-wrapped trout, whole striped bass with a chunky pistachio relish, and apple blackberry-cake.

But after doing some thinking, I realized that my needs were more in line with Remedial Cooking 101. I wanted to learn how to make an enviably fluffy omelette, to cut and dice vegetables evenly, and to be able to whip up a delicious tomato sauce in a few minutes.

Bettina arrived right on time, and I set about searching for that knife set I registered for 3 years ago. She gave me a brief tutorial on the knives (paring, boning, serrated, chef) and showed me how to sharpen them. She then gave me some recommendations for vegetable peelers and an over-the-sink cutting board (the kitchen is tiny!).

We started by cutting some onions and potatoes, which would later be used for a hearty potato soup with rosemary and Parmesan. Bettina showed me how to cut in halves and halves again for perfect dice. (Hard work!) Then we chiffonaded basil, cored and cut some tomatoes, and sliced and diced some garlic (so satisfying to mash it in one fell swoop with the knife).

After we indulged in large bowls of pasta, it was time to make omelettes. Bettina produced her copy of The Making of a Cook and I learned about three different techniques: beaten, shaken and scrambled. (The book is a hoot! It specified "only a couple turns of the pepper shaker, and a few grains of salt.") Bettina demonstrated, and then I made my own... dee-licious. (Don't tell Bettina, but I finished hers, as well as mine, after she left.)

I need to practice cutting, but I'm already thinking about the next lesson. Maybe we can make that apple-blackberry cake!

Bettina can be contacted through her Website. Highly recommended.

Curry-Ya

I just want to eat the block of East Ninth Street between 1st and 2nd Avenues up whole. Chikalicious, Chikalicious Dessert Bar (love that chocolate pudding), Dieci, Rai Rai Ken, and Curry-Ya are located there. But it's getting harder to score a seat at one of these precious little eateries, because half the student body of NYU has discovered this economical and delicious street.

With this in mind, I made plans to meet a friend early in the evening at Rai Rai Ken. But it was a little bit hot in there, so we went next door to the spotless white bar at Curry-Ya, home of the Japanese gourmet curry in regular/hot/extra hot varieties. There are few dishes as comforting as a big portion of rice smothered in that thick brown sauce! We sipped oolong tea and white wine as we investigated the options. An organic raw egg over the curry? Corn? Fermented soybeans? And should we have a Berkshire pork cutlet in our curry, or giant deep-fried shrimp, or some grilled chicken? Price wasn't an obstacle, because everything at Curry-Ya is $15 or under. (Plain curry is only $7, and you can add some other little dishes and dessert to your meal for $6.)

We both decided on a hot, hearty vegetable curry, full of sweet kabocha squash, green beans, long strips of shiitake and large chunks of potato. Big plates of rice arrived with circular indentations in the middle, into which we poured our individual pots of curry. I ordered a raw egg and slathered it all over the rice. Although I enjoyed sprinkling the diced crispy onions over top, the prospect of mixing in the accompanying dish of raisins was not appealing to me. But as the nights grow colder, I know I'll often be angling for one of the coveted seats at Curry-Ya.

Curry-Ya: 214 East 10th St., (866) 60-CURRY.

Three Fabulous Fall Foodie Events

Three of the most exciting food events in New York take place within a month! (I'm glad it's no longer bathing suit season.)

• The NYC Wine & Food Festival. (Oct. 9-12) Tickets are going fast for this multi-faceted festival; the talk with Ferran Adria and Anthony Bourdain is already full, as is the Bobby Flay Chelsea Market tour. But if you want to tie one on, check out the Meatpacking Uncorked wine tasting, and if you crave "the ultimate gastronomic adventure," attend the Grand Tasting (Session 2 is already sold out!). (Proceeds benefit the Food Bank for New York City and Share Our Strength.)

• The 10th Annual New York Taste. (Nov. 3) Last year, it took me about a week to recover from this amazing eatathon. So I'm really looking forward to this year's version, which will feature culinary delights from restaurants like Craft, Blue Hill, Telepan and Morimoto. (Proceeds benefit City Harvest.)

• The 11th Annual Chocolate Show. (Nov. 7-9) Three whole days of chocolate and nothing but chocolate. Need I say more?
  

The 15th Annual Japanese Food & Restaurant Show

This year's Japanese Food & Restaurant Show was an exciting event, with sake tastings, premium food samplings and people-watching galore (I caught sight of folks from Haru, Morimoto, Sushi Den, Takahachi and Soba Totto). Japanese cookbook celeb Hiroko Shimbo was on hand to sign cookbooks (you can find her recipe for tuna tartare here). I enjoyed tasting many innovations: Yamamoto-yama tea in apple and mint flavors; "Super Frozen Tuna" sashimi, boiled cut wild octopus from Azuma Foods, coffee gyuhi crepes, and white peach Sakura Muromachi dessert sake.

But the highlight of the show for me was the "History Of Sushi" lecture given by Eiji Ichimura, who was introduced as "the sushi chef's sushi chef." He passed out marinated tuna in bamboo leaves and salmon roe as he gave us a crash course in sushi.

We learned that sushi came into being when a mild vinegar, akazu, became popular; people used to eat a dish of fermented fish and rice. In the 1800s, a gentleman named Yohei Hanaya apparently created the nigiri-zushi that is so widely enjoyed today. Sushi used to be consumed in much larger portions (three pieces were enough for a meal!) and the prized toro, or tuna belly, was once routinely thrown away. Speaking of tuna, it was not generally consumed as sushi until the 1940s. Salmon roe and sea urchin are also relatively recent additions to the sushi menu. Old-time sushi lovers commonly ate clams, shrimp, whitefish, and silver-skinned fish such as mackerel.

Are you hungry? Well, so was I! After the show I headed over to my beloved Hasaki, where the special, coincidentally, was an Edo-Mae sushi plate. Mmm.

Free Pie In Times Square

I usually avoid Times Square like the plague, but I'll go almost anywhere for free pie. And according to an E-mail I just got from ABC, there will be a free pie truck around Good Morning America's Broadway Studios today! The so-called "Mobile Pie Hole" has been traveling the country, serving up apple pie, blueberry pie and Georgia peach cobbler to promote the new season of Pushing Daisies.

The University of Coffee

According to the National Coffee Association, U.S. consumption of coffee now surpasses that of soft drinks. Every day, Americans drink around 350 million cups. With all this consumption comes more sophistication - we're no longer satisfied with a mug of diner dishwater. Starbucks, which has been instrumental in spreading coffee culture (if not universally acclaimed), recently acquired the company that makes high-end Clover machines. (The Clover is responsible for the delicious brew at serious coffee shrines such as Cafe Grumpy.)

But long before there was Starbucks, there was Illy. Founded in 1933, the Italian company is involved in every step of coffee production from the selection of beans to the perfection of espresso machines. Since 1999, Illy has taken on yet another role - that of educator. Illy's University of Coffee, which already includes 11 international campuses, is about to set up shop at New York's International Culinary Center. Classes will begin in February 2009.

I had the privilege of previewing the course, and came away - "chock-full o' information" - and caffeine! The top two baristas in Italy, Giorgio Milos and Michele Pauletic, expertly prepared cappuccinos and espressos for all the students. (I asked Mr. Pauletic, "How long did you study this art?" "Five years!" was his reply.)

The class was divided into morning lectures, complete with slides and movies, and an afternoon hands-on session. Lecture topics included an international history of coffee, production from the bean to the cup, and the physiological effects of coffee. The history lecture was fascinating to me; I learned that coffee was consumed by Yemenite monks as early as the 13th century - it helped them stay alert for prayer. At first, people boiled the green, unroasted beans. Nomads in Africa mixed their crushed beans with animal fat as a sort of trail mix! And here's a bit of cultural trivia; Turkish law once stipulated that a husband's inability to provide enough coffee was - ahem - grounds for divorce.

The history course went on to cover the different types of coffee machines and the foibles of early models. Did you know that the French press was an English invention? Or that espresso machines were once so complex that a barista couldn't even decipher their operation? And with one unfortunate model, levers suddenly hit people in the face, sending them to the hospital. The stove-top espresso pot, invented by Bialetti in 1933, brought coffee-drinking from the cafe to the home. (Here, our instructor digressed, giving us a helpful mini-tutorial: when using a moka pot, don't tamp down the grounds in the filter! And try to pour out the last 20% of coffee, as it's bound to taste burnt.)

The afternoon sessions featured a tasting of 15 espresso blends, and a lesson on how to make the perfect cappuccino. Mr. Milos and Mr. Pauletic created the most beautiful cappuccino art, mesmerizing us with rosettes, leaves and hearts. We learned how to pour the foam to create the best milk canvas for coffee painting - and how to create the best foam! (Some tips: always use whole milk, never reuse the milk, and if there are visible bubbles instead of an even, velvety white layer, it's wrong!)

Mr. Milos reminded us that the perfect cappuccino requires the perfect espresso, and he taught us about all the variables to create it: the amount of coffee, water temperature, water pressure, time of extraction, amount of water, and tamping technique. We also learned about the four important components of coffee beans: bitterness, acidity, sweetness and aroma. (Did you know that when roasted, a coffee bean quadruples in aromatic elements? Or that Ethiopian beans are added to sweeten a blend?)

This morning, after my customary stove-top espresso, I Googled "how to make a good espresso." There were 5,270,000 results; something tells me there's going to be a lot of interest in the University of Coffee.

The International Culinary Center: 462 Broadway, (888) 324-2433.